Quick answer
A flick is a pushing stroke that lifts the ball off the ground. Start with the ball just ahead of your front foot and the stick already touching it, with no backswing. Get low, open the stick face slightly so it slides under the ball, then drive forward and upward with your legs and arms together. Finish with the stick pointing at your target. Learn it on the pitch, at low height first, with a goal or net in front of you, and never flick the ball towards other players.
Key takeaways
- The flick is a push that lifts: stick on the ball, no backswing, no hit.
- Power comes from the legs and a long, low stride, not from the wrists.
- Lift comes from getting the stick under the ball and following through upwards.
- Practise on the pitch into an empty goal or net, never indoors at home.
- A raised ball must never be dangerous. Check your league's rules for raised balls in general play and at penalty corners.
Flick, scoop, drag flick: what's the difference?
| Stroke | How it works | Typical use |
|---|---|---|
| Flick | Push stroke from a set position, ball lifted to the target | Penalty stroke, shot over a sliding goalkeeper, short lifted pass |
| Scoop | Stick laid back under the ball, lifted with a shovelling action | Aerial pass over long distance, lifting over a stick |
| Drag flick | Ball dragged along the ground in a long stride before release | Penalty corner shot, mostly for advanced players |
The basic flick is the foundation. Get it right before you move to the drag flick.
Step-by-step technique
These steps are for the standard right-handed field hockey stick, which every player uses.
1. Set-up
Stand side-on to the target with your left shoulder pointing towards it. The ball sits just in front of your left foot. Hands are apart on the grip, left hand at the top, right hand lower down the handle. Bend your knees so your back is close to horizontal.
2. Stick on the ball
Place the stick behind and slightly under the ball, face a little open. There is no backswing. If you lift the stick away and swing, it becomes a hit, and lifting the ball from a hit is a different and riskier skill.
3. Drive
Push off your back leg and step forward with your left foot. Move the stick and ball forward together, keeping contact for as long as you can. The longer the contact, the more control.
4. Lift and release
As your weight moves onto the front foot, push the stick forward and up. Your right hand drives, your left hand guides. The ball leaves the stick as your arms extend.
5. Follow-through
Finish with the stick pointing at the target and your body moving forward. A short, chopped follow-through usually means a low, weak flick.
Drills (on the pitch)
Use a goal, a backstop net or an empty field area. Make sure nobody is in front of you or behind the goal. Wear a mouthguard, and if a goalkeeper joins in, they need full protective gear and a coach should supervise.
Drill 1: push to flick progression (10 minutes)
- 3 × 10 push passes along the ground from 5 m (16 ft) into the goal. Focus on low body and stick contact.
- 3 × 10 flicks from 5 m (16 ft), aiming to lift the ball just 20–30 cm (8–12 in).
- 3 × 10 flicks from 7 m (23 ft), aiming at knee height.
Drill 2: corners of the goal (10 minutes)
From about 6–7 m (20–23 ft), flick 5 balls to each of four zones: low left, low right, high left, high right. Count how many land in the right zone. A Goal Target gives you six 42 × 42 cm (16.5 × 16.5 in) targets that attach to the goal, so you can see exactly where each ball goes. Cones or a rope across the goal work too.
Drill 3: flick on the move (5 minutes)
Dribble 3–4 m (10–13 ft) towards goal, set the ball in front of the left foot and flick in one movement. Do 10 reps. This prepares you for lifting the ball over a goalkeeper in open play.
What you can train at home
Indoors and in the garden there is no lifting. What you can do safely is train the parts of the flick that happen along the ground:
- Low body and long stride: slow push passes against a wall or a Rebounder from 3–5 m (10–16 ft), 3 × 2 minutes, with your back low and your front foot stepping long.
- Shadow flicks: 3 × 10 slow-motion flick movements without a ball, checking your set-up and follow-through in a mirror or on video.
Honest note: the Rebounder trains push mechanics and receiving, but it cannot teach you to lift the ball. That part only happens on the pitch.
Common mistakes
- Backswing: turns the flick into a hit. Keep the stick on the ball.
- Standing too upright: the ball goes low or rolls. Bend your knees more.
- Ball too far back: you scoop it up awkwardly. Keep it ahead of the front foot.
- All wrists: little power, poor accuracy. Drive with your legs.
FAQ
Is flicking allowed in field hockey?
Yes. Flicks and scoops may raise the ball, as long as it is not dangerous. Rules on raised balls, especially at penalty corners and in youth games, differ, so check your league's rules.
What is the difference between a flick and a scoop?
A flick is a push stroke that lifts the ball towards a target, usually low to mid height. A scoop lays the stick back under the ball and shovels it higher, often for an aerial pass.
How high should a beginner flick the ball?
Start very low, about 20–30 cm (8–12 in). Height comes naturally once the stick gets under the ball and the follow-through is long.
Can I practise flicking at home?
Not the lift itself. At home you can train the low body position, stride and push mechanics. Flicking a raised ball belongs on the pitch with space and supervision.
Do I need to flick before learning the drag flick?
Yes. The drag flick builds on the same stick-on-ball control and leg drive, with a longer drag added. A solid flick makes the drag flick much easier to learn.
Related articles
- How to drag flick: beginner's guide
- Penalty stroke technique: how to score from the spot
- How to make an aerial pass safely
In the US? The Rebounder, Skiller and Skills Zone are also available on Amazon.
